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Others seemed to prefer Western-style dresses or drag queen apparel. There, each muxe had a section with tables and decorations where food and drinks were served to their guests.
Some even call it a matriarchy, which is not necessarily correct, but women traditionally handle the money brought home by the men. Locals joke that men here have sweet or salty penises, meaning they are either farmers or fishermen. Women, on the other hand, are supposed to sell what men produce, and the market is their domain. Tonight, as is vela tradition, women traditionally donate money as a gift, while the men carry cases of beer. Also, muxes are socially not allowed to have long-term relationships or get married so they can stay with their mothers when they get old.
Kika's mother was checking that nobody was hungry, and younger family members gave me a new bottle of beer when mine started to empty. She owns a beauty salon in the centre of the town. Another of his muxe friends is a primary-school teacher. The spectacle puts a lot of emphasis on the Catholic part of the muxe identity. It was their job to prepare the church decorations. View image of A lot of muxes work preparing the traditional fiestas that are a big part of the local economy Credit: Credit: Zofia Radzikowska After mass, the traditional procession began through the streets of the town.
The colourful crowd was led by a band and muxes carrying candles. Behind them, more muxes rode in cars and trucks decorated with flowers, balloons and paper decorations. But the highlight of the day was the party that took place at night outside town. There were three stages and big speakers. I could see many people: women, men and children. Everyone was wearing regional clothes: women in enaguas and embroidered blouses called huipiles; men in white guayabera shirts.
Los muxe en el siglo XXI Between local and global. Muxes in the 21st Century. There were cases of them being heterosexual, bisexual or asexual. Nonetheless, all the muxes I talked to at the vela considered themselves homosexual or as a woman born in a male body. Some transform themselves with hormone therapy and implants. During the annual Queen of the Muxes contest, which formed part of the vela, I noticed many of them had artificial breasts.